A delicious interactive travel journal
Monica's parents will be joining us from Taipei for our tour of the gorge. After an odd breakfast of corn soup, French-style chinese grilled sandwiches and our fresh fruit, our trusty tour guide takes us back to the train station to meet the parents. From there, since it is still morning, he takes us all to the beach.
I can now say I have seen both sides of the Pacific, and they are both beautiful. As in California, mountains quickly rise from the coastal flats, although here in Taiwan there is more flat land at the base of the mountains which is where I have observed much farmland. The beach here is more rock than shell or sand, probably a result of detritus moved about in typhoons, earthquakes, mudslides, etc. Unlike the murky green water I've seen of the California coast, the water here is an amiable aquamarine. Monica and I rent bicycles and take a brief ride along the beach path, snapping pictures. During our ride, two groups of four fighter jets take off from a nearby airbase, each one flying directly over our heads and out to sea. The noise approaches painful levels. After riding, we go down to the water's edge with Monica's parents feel the water (cool) and collect stones.
Lunch at a nearby mall is nothing fancy. I have pork wontons in noodle soup. Noodles here in Taiwan are really good – even in this basic food-court fare. Our appetites sated, it is time for the main attraction: Taroko Gorge.
It is difficult to describe Taroko. It's even difficult to photograph it. The gorge is huge, beautiful, and a little scary. In every location, signs warn of slippery footing from the water or falling rocks from the eroding overhangs and rock faces. In several places we see real evidence of the danger in the form of recent rock falls or fresh damage to paths and railings.
Tonight we will be staying at the Grand Formosa Taroko Hotel which is in the very small village of Tianshiang, deep inside the park. Our guide will taking us there. On the way, we will stop to take in the highlights of the gorge and the national park established in it's name.
A main road provides passage through the park and along the gorge. It was established several decades ago as part of a trans-island roadway. Due to erosion and earthquakes, it appears to need regular maintenance. Indeed, throughout our tour we see either work crews or evidence of past collapses and more recent construction. Even on this week day the park is busy with tour buses. According to my guide book, many visitors enjoy touring the park by vehicle. I am glad that our guide lets us out at frequent stops to walk the roads and paths and tunnels that line the main waterways. It helps that the weather is outstanding.
Among the rock formations and waterfalls and mountains several memorials have been established to recognize those people who died during the construction of the roads and tunnels.
The park is thoughtfully designed with regular resting areas near memorials and other points of interest. Each one of these stops has places to sit, often sheltered, and most have a public bathroom (although squat toilets are the norm). At many of these resting places we find groups of amateur artists sketching or painting pictures of the scenery. Some of their work is enviable. This is definitely better than what you could capture with a photograph.
I am a big fan of places like Taroko Gorge – a result of my childhood in upstate New York. We take a significant number of pictures (and killed the batteries of two cameras) but I wonder if what we record actually captures what it's like to be here.
We are fortunate to be visiting the park in early March. It's the off-season, so the crowds are small. It's not terribly hot and therefore pleasant to be outdoors without working up a sweat. And, since it's technically still winter, insects are not a big problem. Monica got a few mosquito bites (my guidebook recommends long pants an sleeves for protection) but that's about it. I was wearing lightweight pants, a t-shirt, a sweater, and trail running shoes and I was both protected and comfortable. I might have been cold if it rained but we were lucky.
We tour the gorge on our way to the hotel for about 2 hours. We arrive a little after the 3pm check-in time. Here, we bid farewell to our guide. In the morning, the hotel shuttle will take us back to the train station.
The Grand Formosa Taroko is the best place we stay in Taiwan, and it's not even close. This is also one of the best places I have ever stayed. The hotel doesn't look like much from the outside (actually it looked old and run down) but the facade conceals a gem. The lobby was recently renovated and is beautiful. The lower level houses two dining rooms, a fitness center, spa, sauna, swimming pool, and entertainment area with billiards, bumper cars, table tennis, video games, mini-bowling, and karaoke. On the roof (where there are excellent mountain and gorge views) is the ballroom, outdoor pool, and tennis court. The staff was amazing and professional. Our room was spacious with an excellent and unique bathroom and a small balcony overlooking the hotel's central courtyard.
We are able to stay here because, due to the worldwide economic problems, we were offered a great deal. Our stay cost about $100. We later learned our room's usual rate is about $300.
If there is one complaint, it is that the hotel is basically in the middle of nowhere. The village we are in seems to consist of 3 family-owned restaurants, a post office, a phone company office, and a temple. Oh, and quite a few dogs. The environment is good for relaxing and getting away from it all, so that's what we did. After having some complementary afternoon tea in our rooms, Monica gets the rare opportunity to sing some karaoke (which she is quite good at). Then we play tennis (which we are not very good at). After changing, we go out to dinner at one of the available restaurants. The food is typical Chinese and "not bad". The most interesting item for me was the bamboo soup, which included some unusually large pieces of bamboo. After dinner, we take a look at the hotel's rather impressive gift shop before retiring to bed.
In 2009, my girlfriend and I visited her home country of Taiwan. During our two week vacation, I wrote daily notes of my experiences and together we took over a thousand photos. Those notes and photos have been compiled into this interactive travel journal.
Design, Text, Code: © Copyright 2009 by Aaron Pinero except as noted.
Photographs may not be used in any other medium without permission. In most cases, we'd be glad to let you if you ask.